Edith Falls is a series of waterfalls that cascade through several pools into a little lake, which is perfect for swimming. The signage ensures us that the area is croc-free. Saltwater crocodile-free, that is. On our second visit to Edith Falls we learn that there are freshwater crocodiles living in the plunge pool. However, they are not interested in us human beings and during daytime usually hide in the downstream creek. So yes, we actually swam with crocs!
Rest assured, this doesn’t result in an adrenaline rush. The experience of swimming through the lake to the waterfall, of climbing up onto the rocks, of enjoying a natural shower is already stimulation enough.
A few words about saltwater crocodiles: The label “saltwater” is actually misleading. The more fitting name would be estuarine crocodiles as it’s the estuaries of rivers that are their main habitat. From there, they can go upstream for a long distance, eventually ending up in lakes like Edith Fall’s plunge pool. Croc traps and careful observation through rangers minimise the risk of having one of these anti-pets swimming with the tourists (and feeding on them …). In the wet season when the water level rises, so does the likelihood of having “salties” in the pool; it therefore gets closed for a few months.
Luckily we don’t have to worry. We enjoy the pools: In the morning, when we have breakfast at the upper pool, go for a swim afterwards, and have the whole area for ourselves till around 10 am loads of tourists arrive. In the evening, when the sun colours the cliffs into a glowing orange, and a local fella plays the didgeridoo. A place of contemplation, of reflection, not only reflections.
[Edith Falls (Leliyn), Nitmiluk National Park, 18.-20. and 24.-25. August]
