Saturday, 8 August 2015

Atherton Tablelands

Cape Tribulation is a turning point on our journey, and it’s time to say goodbye to the Pacific Ocean. A few kilometres further south, at Port Douglas, we turn right and leave the James Cook Highway. Quickly the road becomes more narrow, winding, and very steep. Yet there are still many semi-trailers hauling sugar cane; the harvesting season is in full swing.

Our destination are the Atherton Tablelands. Up here on 700-800 m altitude the mountains, which down at sea level used to be a dramatic backdrop casting long shadows early in the afternoon, become part of an undulating landscape that reminds me of Germany’s Allgäu area, the footsteps to the Alps. Many of them are clearly of volcanic origin, and indeed today’s tour leads us to Lake Eacham, a crater lake and remnant of seismic activity only 10,000 years ago. Shortly before we arrive, we enter a pocket of dense rainforest that we haven’t expected to see again, let alone in this landscape, which is dominated by farming and little historic villages.

A hike around the lake the next morning reveals the stunning beauty of this area: Freshwater turtles bask on fallen logs in the blue-green water. Massive curtain figs must have been here since prehistoric times.



However, the animal we have hoped to find doesn’t show up: platypus.

Local knowledge comes to our rescue: Not far from Lake Eacham, at Yungaburra, there is a little creek. It’s here where we are lucky enough to see some of these fascinating animals, half duck, half beaver, egg laying, but mammals, frolicking in the water (that looks like English breakfast tea with milk).


A warm camp fire is another highlight of this day. The following one we stock up on food before we tackle the most intimidating part of our journey, the long trip west to the red centre.

[Lake Eacham, 6.-8. August]