Thursday, 9 July 2015

Seal Rocks

The first day of our 3-months journey contains all the ingredients to potentially end up in a perfect disaster. “Of course” we leave Sydney way too late, hence have to re-adjust our itinerary before we set up tent for the first night. Our first milestone is Seal Rocks around 270 km north of Sydney where we book us into the Treachery Beach campsite. The name should have warned us.

Upon our (late) arrival shortly before sunset we go for a beach walk — only to realise a bit too late how quickly dusk and darkness set in. So we have to set up camp in utter darkness, only slightly lit up by the weakest of our head torches, because the better ones are stored away into some remote corners of our camper trailer where we would find them a few hours later.

“Of course” after weeks of sunshine it now starts bucketing down — and it doesn’t help that the place has no camp kitchen. Boiling water (for pasta) on a barbecue doesn’t cut it, so we have to resort to the gas stove in our camper trailer. Luckily the rain has an insight and stops just long enough for us to cook dinner.

It could have been a start into our adventure that makes you want to turn around immediately and head home. But then …

The night turns out to be an amazing one: The clouds dissolve, and only a few hours north of Sydney the night sky with gazillions of stars is incredible. We experience Seal Rock’s interesting night life: the sound of dingoes, spookily howling in the not too far distance.

The next day welcomes us with sunshine and, after the rain, some amazing morning mist.

Evaporation made visible

We allow plenty of time for “sightseeing” before heading further north. Seal Rocks is a township with a population of a few hundred people, so sightseeing actually means visiting the lighthouse. Yet the scenery is spectacular, and on a good day you might spot some migrating whales. Again we don’t. But some dolphins play in the surf.

Sugarloaf Lighthouse

There is another spectacular feature: The ocean has broken a tunnel into the cliffs and formed a blow hole that waves are thundering through. Of course we have to walk in as close as possible.

Seal Rocks Blow Hole

[Seal Rocks, Treachery Beach camp ground, 8.-9. July]