About 440 million years ago, central Australia was covered by a huge inland sea. When it receded, sand dunes formed on top. They again got glued together by mineral-rich water, thus forming a layer of hard sandstone on top of a softer one. When they rose above the surrounding plains, the George Gill Range was formed. The Kings Creek carved a spectacular canyon through it with overhanding rocks and sheer cliffs of around 100 metres height.
Watarrka National Park is recognised for three reasons: its cultural significance, geology and biodiversity. The geology is obvious, however the most obvious fauna feature is the flies, which are really annoying in this semi-arid zone.
The most prominent hike is the rim walk, and according to the warning signs it’s the most dangerous on our whole journey: Repeatedly visitors are asked if they feel fit enough, whether they are well prepared and carrying enough water. On days with forecast temperatures above 36° the track gets closed at 9 am. On a ranger-guided tour we learn that the mercury up on the rim can rise to more than 50°.
Though it is still winter, we therefore start early. And we are lucky: While the top temperature on the previous day was in the mid-thirties, a cold front has come through and dropped them to mid-20. So we don’t have to rush to complete the hike. Instead, we can detour to lookouts and into the Garden of Eden, a permanent waterhole in the canyon.
The next day we reveal a well-kept secret: Kings Canyon is the start of a 2-day hike to Kathleen Springs along the Giles Track. We decide to follow it for a few kilometres and return along the same route.
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| Typical Aussie hiking track |
What we discover leaves us speechless: On top of the plateau there are hundreds of weathered sandstone domes — a paradise to climb on for Jonas and Niklas. The whole scenery reminds us of old Inka pyramids. Only that it was Mother Nature who built them millions of years ago.
[Kings Canyon, Watarrka NP, 6.-9. September]
